2023 Damien Guadagnolo Poulsard Cote du Jura Gruner Veltliner From 30–50-year-old sustainably farmed vines

From 30–50-year-old sustainably farmed vines

or simply as an aperitif any night of the week

Quantities are obviously limited

The wine is dark

Juan Carlos López de Lacalle walked away from the Rioja DOCa rather than let a bureaucratic label obscure the identity of individual villages — "Laguardia alone is bigger than Châteauneuf-du-Pape

2023 Damien Guadagnolo Poulsard Cote du Jura Gruner Veltliner From 30–50-year-old sustainably farmed vinesPoulsard is Jura's most ethereal red grape, and in Guadagnolo's hands it sings. A proper strawberry bomb a touch reductive at first but pleasantly so, with a little stemmy lift on the nose that blows away to reveal a lithe palate of wild, sweet fruit and a long, savoury finish. Featherlight in body, zero sulfur, and utterly captivating this is the kind of wine that converts the unconvinced.